How to Make a Wood Go Kart Part 2 of 3

Description:

This week I’m going to be adding the axle to the go kart frame and mounting the engine. To get started, I drilled two 1/2″ holes on each side of the frame on the back. This allowed me to bolt my pillow blocks into place with a 1/2″ bolt at 3″ long. I found it easier to slide the axle through both of the pillow blocks prior to bolting. This prevented me from having to deal with alignment issues from one side to the other. With my axle bolted in place, I added the sprocket and brake hub to each side and locked them in place with the set screws they came with. I added locking collars on each side as well to prevent anything from sliding. Now it’s just a matter of adding the wheels and tightening the nuts on the end. When assembling a live axle, you have to use key stock to keep the wheels, sprocket and brake drum engaged with the axle. With the axle fully assembled, I added two 2×4 crossbars where I needed to mount my engine. I glued and screwed those into place and drilled holes for my 5/16″ engine mount bolts to go. From here, I bolted the engine down to the frame and attached my chain from the engines clutch to the sprocket on the live axle. Next week I’ll be completing the rest of the go kart build so make sure you stay tuned!  If you would like to build this go kart, I’ve left a shopping/cut list to all the parts that you’ll need as well as an assembly guide that briefly takes you through each stage of the build.

Note: Parts on this list constantly change and parts that were previously available may not be available anymore. I’ll try to keep everything updated the best that I can. There may also be a few miscellaneous parts that I used that aren’t listed. Sorry for any inconvenience.

Go Kart Parts List:

1- 212cc (6.5 HP) Predator Engine

1- 3/4″ Clutch 12T #35 (Slides onto the Engine Shaft to Drive the Chain)

1- 5/16-24″ Clutch Bolt with Washers (Prevents the Clutch from Sliding off the Engine Shaft)

2- 6″ Wheels for the Front of the Kart (Select 6″ x 4-1/2″ Front Rim)

2- 6″ Wheels for the Back of the Kart (Select 6″ x 4-1/2″ Rim with a 1″ Bore)

2- Pillow Blocks (Connects the Axle to the Frame)

1- 1″ Steel Live Axle at 32″ Long (Add 2 Axle Nuts as well)

1- 3/16″ and 1/4″ Key Stock Kit (Connects the Sprocket and Brake Drum to the Axle as well as the Clutch to the Engine)

6- 1″ Locking Collars (Positions Everything on the Axle)

1- 72T Sprocket for and Brake Drum Hub Kit (Combines the Sprocket and Brake Drum into 1 Piece)

1- Brake Band (Wrap Around the Brake Drum to Stop the Kart)

1- Brake Pin (Connects the Brake Band to the Brake Cable)

1- Brake Lever and Cable (Connects to Brake Band)

1- Throttle Twist Grip Assembly (Allows you to control the Engine’s Throttle)

1- Piece of 7/8″ Metal for the Handlebars (Select 24″ for Length)

2- 7/8″ Tube Strap Clamps (Holds the Handle Bars in Position)

1- Fishing Boat Seat

Lumber/Hardware Store Shopping List:

1- 2×6 at 8′ Long

2- 2×4’s at 8′ Long

1- 1 1/4″x1 11/4″ Square Metal Tubing at 30″ Long

1- Box of 3″ Exterior Wood Screws

1- Bottle of Wood Glue

8- 1/4″ Bolts at 4″ Long (Mounts Square Tubing to Wood Frame)

16- 1/4″ Washers

8- 1/4″ Nuts

2- 5/16″ Bolts at 3″ Long (Engine Mount Bolts for Right Side)

2- 5/16″ Bolts at 5″ Long (Engine Mount Bolts for left Side)

8- 5/16″ Washers

4- 5/16″ Lock Nuts

4- 1/2″ Bolts at 3″ Long (Mounts Pillow Blocks in Place)

1- 1/2″ Bolt at 4″ Long (Front Bolt for Steering)

8- 1/2″ Washers

6- 1/2″ Nuts

2- 5/8″ Bolts at 6.5″ Long (1 for each Front Wheel)

2- 5/8″ Lock Nuts (1 for each Front Wheel)

Cut List:

1- 2×6 at 24″ Long (Steering Board)

1- 2×6 at 50″ Long (Center Frame)

2- 2×4’s at 40″ Long (Sides of Frame)

5- 2×4’s at 12.5″ Long (Frame Cross Bars)